Bicycling in Goa

K: One of my favorite things to do when traveling is to get out and about in the countryside to see the local villages, people and sights. We rented bikes from the hotel and set out for a tour of the surrounding area. These bikes were an adventure in and of themselves: way too heavy, no gears, brakes that marginally work, and seats that don't adjust. Despite all of that, we had a wonderful time navigating the dirt track paths and the local roads -- one lane for cars traveling in both directions, scooters, tuk-tuks, cows and water buffalo.

We took a small ferry across the River Sol and biked along the river to see the local fishing villages. I loved the smell of curry wafting from the homes that were mostly decorated for Christmas. Calls from children wishing us "Merry Christmas and hello" came from so many houses.

V: Nothing like an all-day bike ride sitting up, out of the saddle all day! The bike seat wouldn't adjust upwards to a comfortable level. Work those thighs! Despite the condition of the bicycles, we enjoyed the countryside excursion to a remote fishing village.

Those silver things in one of the photos are smelts, getting sundried. Lots of activity in the fishing village we rode to. Let's just say that a bicycling American woman is something the fishermen don't see everyday. It was fun to hear those whistles and watch those unending glances her way.

Our ultimate destination was a seaside shack called the Blue Whale, which was recommended for nice atmosphere and decent cuisine. As the photos belie, it was beautiful on this nearly-deserted stretch of southern Goa beach.
Despite the menuboard, there didn't appear to be any Russians there when we were bathing in the surf and basking in the sun. The food, and cold Kingfisher beer, was good, after our bike ride.

And now, I can't resist a sly comment on how curious it was to see so many signs advertising cheap dental care in Goa... . Oh, wait, that's right, it makes perfect sense--there's so many British tourists!!!!!!!


Sips: More Kingfisher and local Indian wine Sula Rose, which wasn't bad at all.


Bites: Puri (deep fried dough that puffs up), raita (mildly spiced yogurt), pork vindaloo and fish curry (typical Goan fare), idli (south Indian spongy rice cakes), and dosas (south Indian crepes stuffed with vegetables).