The end is near......

K: The last day of the trip was spent in Shenandoah National Park. Fall (maybe early winter due to a cold front) was definitely in the air, but we wanted to camp on our last night of the trip. Shenandoah is in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. Its history is interesting because settlers lived on the land for centuries. To create the park, Virginia acquired more than 1,000 acres of land and donated it to the US. Skyline drive is a 100 mile highway that is flanked by forests and mountains, and we were lucky to catch the end of the fall colors.

The Appalachian trail runs through the entire park, and we hiked a bit of it. We saw several "through" hikers on the trail during the day and could even see the light from their headlamps after the sun had set. I can safely say that hiking the entire 2,ooo + mile trail is NOT on my bucket list. However, I now own my very own "hiking pole." It is quite handy for rocky and wet terrain.

V: Wow! By the time this trip is done, we will have hit 10,000 miles. Not bad for 42 days on the road. Karen hasn't put that many miles on her car in the last two years. It has been a super trip. Karen has earned so many Merit Badges - camping, fire making, hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, tent set-up, camp stove and campfire cooking...and perhaps most importantly, her map navigation and excellent car passenger/navigator badge.

We are definitely coming back to Shenandoah and, at this point, it could be Karen's first back country camping experience where we will hike in and set up camp off of the trail. I have never in my life seen so many deer in one place. If you don't hunt them, they have no reason to fear humans. As you can see, every campsite in the park has a bear locker. The park ranger warned me to be on the lookout for the bear family that was roaming our campsite. However, we didn't see them. Bummer.

It was a really nice touch to hear the rain coming down in the middle of the night and to wake up with the tent covered in frost. I guess it is a sign that it is time to return to "civilization."

Karen has called this a life changing experience. I hope so, for it is always good to pack up the gear, get in touch with mother nature and the great outdoors.

Highlights:

Bites: Grilled spam, peppers and onions with a side of Indian masala rice. Boiled peanuts, a curious delicacy from North Carolina. Good but difficult to eat.

Sights: Charlottesville, Virginia and Shenandoah National Park

Tennessee Shindig

K: The Great Smoky Mountains at the peak of fall colors was spectacular. The weather front finally moved ahead of us, and we were able to camp for two nights. We found a beautiful campsite next to a creek that was nearly raging given all the recent rain in the area. I never thought a raging river would keep me awake at night.

This national park is the most visited in the US, with nearly 10 million visitors per year. At first I thought that was because of the accessibility for cars throughout the park. Now I think it is because of the towns of Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg that are the gateway to the region. Imagine a combination of Orlando. the Mall of America, the Jersey Shore and Las Vegas without the casinos...."dinner buffet theater", amusement rides, miniature gulf on steroids, the Guiness World Record Museum, the Comedy Barn, the Titanic Attraction (in 2010), outlet malls, pancake house after pancake house, Christmas stores, taffy and fudge shops, every chain restaurant ever created, the Big Bear Jamboree, Dollywood Splash Park, Dolly's Dixie Stampede, and, of course, the Tennessee Shindig. Fortunately or unfortunately, we only had an afternoon to explore. Who knew?

We were active and completed a hike to the park's highest waterfall. With the fall colors, it was just gorgeous. And the high water levels made part of the trail more like a small stream than a path.

V: The beautiful moonlit sky made this campsite one of our best. The river appeared to glow, it was such a bright moon.

Clang - bang! Karen awoke with a start, and asked me "WHAT WAS THAT?" I said, "you mean that noise?" She said, "yeah, is it a bear? I just know it is a bear." Despite her fears that claws would be scratching the vehicle or ripping the nylon on her side if the tent, I was pretty sure I knew what caused the noise. Yeah, she thought is was a bear messing with the it was those masked, striped-tailed varmints at work.

I should have known. Karen was absolutely gleeful and giddy at our attending the show at the Tennessee Shindig. And, yeah, she was right, that the gentleman who escorted us to our seats was a little too inquisitive about where we were from and what we were doing. The first half of the show was really well done, featuring songs throughout the decades of all genres of popular music. A highlight was the show's young singer portraying Elvis. He had the moves and the voice down perfectly. The second half of the show was, yup, the Tennessee Christmas Shindig. It was obvious that this was what most of the crowd was there for. But I don't think anyone, especially me, was prepared for me and two other large gentlemen up on stage modeling women's Yuletide lingerie. (That seat usher had me pegged for this song). I had a cute little green number with bells attached. (Yeah, got the free DVD to prove it). Yes, Karen was grinning broadly as I was kicking up my heels with one of the cute elves.

I never thought I would like Tennessee this much. I definitely want to return to Great Smoky Mountain National Park and explore the carnival-like atmosphere of its neighboring towns. Anyone want to join us for a hoot and a holler? Maybe by my next visit I will decide if I want the "Paddle Faster I Hear Banjo Music" or the "You Got a Purdy Mout'" t-shirt.

Highlights:

Bites: Three Bear Pancake House - Viggo needed pancakes. It was tough to choose given the number of establishments. At the campsite - sweet potatoes roasted on the fire, grilled turkey sausage with peppers and onions and for dessert, jiffy pop.

Sights: Smoky Mountain National Park, the Newfound Gap, the Appalachian trail on the Tennessee/North Carolina border and a full moon.

Guns, God and Fireworks

The drive across the states of Arkansas and Tennessee has been interesting. The billboards seem to focus on God, Fireworks and the sale of guns. And then there are the radio stations... . Let's just say there is little news and music and a whole lot of fundamental Christian talk radio, and Christian programming... focused on salvation and revelations.

We arrived at Sevierville, TN, last night. It is the entry point to Great Smoky Mountain National Park where we will camp for two days. But the options in Sevierville are so tempting... The Big Black Bear Christmas Jamboree, The Temptations Revue, Dolly Parton's Dixieland Extravaganza in Dollywood .... .

It is still early Fall here in Appalachia. The leaves on the trees are in full color and are just gorgeous. We are looking forward to great hiking and viewing of waterfalls. Then off to Shenandoah National Park and then to Philly. We plan to return to civilization on Thursday.

Highlights:

Bites: Hot Fish (a Tennessee delicacy) at Bolton's Spicy Chicken & Fish in Nashville. The choices are whiting, catfish or chicken, served hot or mild, lightly breaded and fried with some 'special seasonings' (which seemed a lot like paprika!), with sides of mac & cheese, turnip greens, coleslaw, beans... . At first we weren't sure the restaurant was open, given the bars on the windows and doors, but we were in luck. A lovely woman runs both the "front of the house and the back of the house." She was delightful, and the food was absolutely, surprisingly, satisfyingly delicious.

Sights: Hope, Arkansas, birthplace of Bill Clinton. It certainly didn't take long to tour Hope. It is a desolate place.

Hot Springs National Park - Hot Springs, Arkansas. This national park is in the city of Hot Springs and reflects the traditions of bathing that were prevalent in the area in the 1920's - 1940's. Except for one, the bath houses are no longer operational, and there is one that is preserved and is available to tour. Many of the procedures seem somewhat medieval - such as all of the electrotherapy gadgets... . But all in all, the bath house was the precursor to the modern-era day spa. There were changing rooms, massage rooms, baths, salons for men and women, a music room, a card room... . But most interesting was the gymnasium. The 'work-out' machines were early versions of today's Cybex machines, made of leather with leather straps and pulleys. So interesting.

Memphis, Tennessee - Beale Street, an avenue very reminiscent of Bourbon Street in Nawlins, indeed, with lots of decent music played in the bars, and, of course, Elvis impersonator acts!